On Tuesday, September 22, in Milan, Prada opened Spring/Summer 2027 Fashion Week. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons set themselves a single rule: a skirt in each of the collection's sixty-three looks, thereby turning it into a true subject of study.<o:p></o:p>

ONE GARMENT, ENDLESS FORMS
Sixty-three looks, each featuring a skirt. <o:p></o:p>Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons chose to start with a garment they consider universal, linear and modernist, and to make it the collection's only fixed parameter: everything else is in constant flux.&nbsp;The skirt splits, drapes, takes shape, and stacks in layers, sometimes straight and demure, sometimes architectural and whimsical. <o:p></o:p>The materials muddle how we read the garment and play on ambiguity: cotton, leather, suede, transparent nylon, pleated Re-Nylon and matte waxed fabric, lace, crystals, and innocent flowers placed alongside acid-hued colors. Velcro serves as a base for crystal embroidery and allows the skirt to close, conceal or reveal. Oversized metal snaps are set like jewels, while the crinoline, once hidden, becomes a decorative shell. <o:p></o:p>From materials to colors, the principle is the same: contrast.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p>That is the challenge: taking an object as limited as a skirt and creating a vast panorama from it. Prada does not seek to multiply the number of pieces, but to explore how many forms a single garment can take. It is this plurality within a single object that lies at the heart of the collection: through all these variations, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons prove that diversity exists within singularity.<o:p></o:p>

A FEMININITY UNDONE
At Prada, the skirt has always been a matter of femininity. <o:p></o:p>Here, it searches for itself, loses itself, finds itself again, and embraces its chaotic edges. <o:p></o:p>A straight office skirt is sometimes paired with a technical, almost industrial fabric; a very demure shirt is occasionally combined with exaggerated volumes; and often a bralette slips beneath an oversized jacket. <o:p></o:p>Nothing is supposed to go together, and that is precisely what the collection showcases: the skirt can be alluring, practical, professional, or outlandish. <o:p></o:p>Metal-framed glasses, pointed-toe shoes, and tousled hair prevent the looks from becoming too prim. <o:p></o:p>Here, the skirt is not worn in just one way, and that is where the collection becomes more than a stylistic exercise.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p>Depending on the silhouettes, it speaks to different women and different moments. <o:p></o:p>Prada does not create a single definition of womanhood, but rather several possible versions of femininity and with them, several ways of inhabiting one's own body. <o:p></o:p>Ultimately, the skirt becomes a reflection of the woman wearing it: just as there are many women within every woman, there are many skirts within the skirt.<o:p></o:p>

The Skirt: the new Prada collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

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